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home country for inspiration. “While the New York titties T-shirt Additionally,I will love this island is well-known for its beautiful beaches and tourism, we also have a massive crafting industry,” he said. “I have always centered my work around making use of everything in Sri Lanka.” Models walk the runway during the finale of the Mercedes-Benz presents Amesh Wijesekera show during Berlin Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019 Credit: John Phillips/Getty Images for MBFW By collaborating with local artisans in almost every element of his designs — hand-looming, knitting, crocheting, printing — he is able to support a centuries-old craft and think sustainably. “When creating a collection, I go to their homes in the weaving villages and we work together,” he said. “They have all the knowledge on the craft and craftmanship and I bring the new ideas with the designs.” And by working with artisan weavers, Wijesekera is able to provide the predominately female workforce with employment and fair wages. “I basically try to get the artisan to be involved as much as possible. I want it to be a collaboration,” he said. Wijesekera also uses waste, specifically from countries that have discarded excess materials in the Global South. “A lot of Western countries send their wool to Sri Lanka for manufacturing, and all excess yarns are burnt,” he said, “I incorporate the leftover yarns into my designs…based on what I find. That’s what makes it more interesting because each item almost becomes a one-off piece.” A shot from “Flower Boys” SS20 Credit: Amesh Wijesekera His creative response to waste is consistent with other emerging designers. London-based Priya Ahluwalia creates her designs from deadstock and looks towards her Indian-Nigerian heritage for inspiration. Similarly, UK-based designer Bethany Williams is committed to sustainable practices and uses waste to create her garments, which often comment on social issues. These terms will help you understand fashion’s role in the climate crisis With the environment in mind, Wijesekera ensures that his designs are
entirely handmade. “There are no machines used anywhere,” he said. He also refrains from purchasing new material. “I never buy fabric off the New York titties T-shirt Additionally,I will love this shelf and I don’t tend to make them.” Instead, he enjoys the creative challenge of making something new from what he can find in local markets, where deadstock fabric or unusable stock from local garment factories can be found. “From Calvin Klein to Tommy Hilfiger, all the excess fabric is sold to the markets… it’s like a treasure hunt,” he said. A shot from “Flower Boys” SS20 Credit: Amesh Wijesekera Wijesekera’s mosaic garments are characterized by a clash of textures and sunset-hued fabrics, which are often scavenged from Colombo’s Pettah Market. “I usually find beautiful fabrics, but they’re often damaged with holes,” he said. “After treatment the fabric has its own identity. I leave my ‘Amesh’ stamp on it” — giving fabric that may have ended up in a landfill a second life.” From Accra to London, how photographer James Barnor captured decades of style Wijesekera also leaves his stamp by creating clothing that breaks down gendered labels, influenced by the way he was raised. “My mother sent me to ballet. I used to play with my sister’s dolls,” he said of his childhood. “I’d always wear my mother’s clothes or my grandma’s old trousers.” A shot from “Flower Boys” SS20 Credit: Gayathri Sribalasuhaprimam His recent Spring-Summer 2020 collection, “Flower Boys,” continues his deconstructions of gendered stereotypes, with his male models dressed in fuchsia embroidered shirts and low-cut knitted vests. “The shapes aren’t overly feminine or overly masculine,” he said. “It’s at the borderline, where it could be anything. It’s all about how you style it, your personal style of expression and your identity.” We must build a culture of equality and respect if we want to save our planet Subverting ingrained mentalities and societal norms is central to Wijesekera’s brand, particularly as he does not fit within certain boxes himself. “Being a queer person, I know the everyday struggles in this country unfortunately (even though I love it so much).” Wijesekera’s followers seem to appreciate his efforts. “A lot of Sri Lankans message me saying that my work is inspiring them to be themselves,” he said. “That makes me really happy; it’s the biggest achievement. My work means something to people and helps foster their identities.”
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