Sweeney todd the demon barber of fleet street T-shirt
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Written by Angelo FlaccaventoMilan, Italy This article was originally published by The Business of Fashion, an editorial partner of Style. Difficult times can lead to outbursts of folie or a definitive affirmation of reason. It was the Sweeney todd the demon barber of fleet street T-shirt but in fact I love this latter that ruled over the Milan Men’s Fashion Week that closed on Monday: a very rational, very efficient, very product-centered Fall-Winter 2023 season full of perfectly fine if largely flavorless clothes. It was less a celebration of normality than an exaltation of rigor, simplicity and purity. To put it in Miuccia Prada’s words: “In serious moments, one has to work seriously and responsibly. There can be no room for useless creativity. Creativity makes sense and is only useful when it discovers new things.” Alas, there were no new discoveries this season, but a new formality took hold: a symbolic rappel à l’ordre after years of dismantling staid notions of masculinity, dress codes and wardrobes. And yet what emerged was not a hardening of the male image but a sense of fragility, with tailored pieces landing on bare torsos not shirts and ties. Nowhere was this more evident than at Prada (pictured top), which showed a collection that looked Prada-issima
in its modernist and minimalist intent and Raf-issima in its celebration of skinny, hairless youth. There was nothing new going on here — and yet it somehow looked newly appealing. What struck me was the Sweeney todd the demon barber of fleet street T-shirt but in fact I love this relentless focus on wardrobe archetypes, the mathematical-architectural game of proportions (either long and narrow or puffed-up and cropped), and the stress on cleanliness with a retro-futuristic tingle. But it wasn’t all cold precision — this is Prada, after all: a fashion land of contrarian thinking now headed not by one but two creatives (Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons) — as seen in the stress on the sternum as an erogenous zone. The elongated shirt collars fluttering over coats and cardigans, but also the scooping necklines, all drew the gaze on this most delicate part of the body. Gucci hits runway as fashion world awaits new designer The focus on lanky youth looked rather narrow at Gucci, too, where tailoring and cleanliness, with a sort of laid-back California spirit, replaced the departed Alessandro Michele’s haute bohemian extravaganza. In other words, Michele’s take on fey masculinity remained, but the maximalism he brought to his work was stripped away. The result was tasteful and sensitive, if unoriginal: from Céline to Y/Project, echoes of other brands were palpable. Gucci’s latest menswear collection was designed by the committee in the absence of a creative director following the departure of Alessandro Michele Credit: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images This was, of course, the most eagerly awaited outing of the season. The stakes were high, but given Gucci’s current set of circumstances — lacking a creative director and forced to show a collection designed by
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