The pitch clock is stupid T-shirt
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committee — there was little to expect. Hitting the The pitch clock is stupid T-shirt Apart from…,I will love this pause button for a season could have been a better approach, but to the extent that this outing was an exercise in purifying Gucci’s lexicon, the collection opened a door to the future. Giorgio Armani: A lion in his winter years Old school elegance and discretion are making a comeback. It was layers of deconstructed beige, velvet and double-breasted suits worn with neckties at Giorgio Armani. For his finale, Armani sent out couples holding hands and it all looked like a celebration of tradition that speaks volumes about the world we live in. At his second line, the Emporio Armani aviator was a joy to behold: wrapped in enveloping trench coats, asymmetrically buttoned blazers, abbreviated pants and boots with massive soles, he did not fall into the “Top Gun” trap, maintaining a gentle demeanor. Or, to quote Armani, “he is human, subtle.” This collection was frankly an unexpected surprise: a tour through the possibilities of tailoring and elegance for a generation that has probably rarely charted such waters before. Faultlessly tailored blazers, Dracula capes, waist shapers and transparent blouses came in a restricted palette of black, white and very light grays at Dolce & Gabbana. It was taut and focused, if excessively repetitious. Here, too, skin was a present but, showing through shirts and peeking under coats and tops, the look was more sensual than
fragile. Elsewhere, the The pitch clock is stupid T-shirt Apart from…,I will love this household was front and center. Domesticity was everywhere: blankets, pillows, slippers and childhood memories. The stay-at-home emphasis was somehow strange: after the pandemic one expected a fiercer urge for adventure, parties, other shores. And yet, in the uncertain world we inhabit, people are no doubt looking for reassurance. Sometimes the inward and the outward can make for an interesting blend, converging in a house party feel of sorts. This was the case at Fendi, which united the perfectly domestic with an array of feisty and sparkly gear at a show scored by disco master Giorgio Moroder. Silvia Venturini played once again with duality, and hit a high point with a mix of seduction, slim Seventies tailoring and outerwear liquefying into blankets that was a blast from start to finish. What’s thrilling about her way with menswear is how dense and rich every piece feels, without looking overdone, flashy or vulgar. Such balance requires mastery and Venturini owns it. Models present creations for Fendi during Men’s Fashion Week in Milan on January 14, 2023. Credit: Jin Mamengni/Xinhua/Getty Images In his first men’s outing at Etro, designer Marco De Vincenzo was
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